Installing Dual Carburators on a Flathead V8. Installing Dual Carburators on a Flathead V8. August 3, 2. 00. 4 Comments. By Thomas Teixeira. His web site can be found athttp: //world. Cars. html. Pretty much all the books on flatheads don’t recommend morethan dual carburetors for street use, and many of the newer booksrecommend putting on a four barrel carburetor instead of two carburetors. At the same time, two, three or more carburetors were the onlychoices back in the 4.
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Plus the decorative possibilitiesfor multiple carburetor setups are almost endless: air scoops,velocity stacks, various types of chromed and polished air cleaners. I’ll explain moreabout how we chose each of the major pieces and then what we didto install them. Choosing the manifold. Some of the other trade- offs involve how and where to mounta generator or alternator.
If the carburetors are put in the . But some of the older intake manifolds(including the ones still manufactured by Offenhauser) also havean option where the carburetors are closer together, both towardsthe rear of the engine to leave room for a generator. We were already using an alternator instead of a generatorand have quite a bit more room at the front of the engine, andhad seen pictures in one flathead book of an engine with threecarburetors and an alternator so we thought that we might be ableto install a . We knew a generatorwouldn’t fit, but some pictures of older manifolds in books showedthe bracket anyway, and the bracket seems to be their for thetriple carburetor manifolds: on engines from the late 4.
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While we weren’t sure if we had just ordered the wrong versionof the super dual manifold, briefly eyeballing the space availablefor the alternator made us nervous. Since then, we have seen used Offenhauser super dual manifoldsat swap meets that do have the bracket, but by then we alreadyhad a manifold. We briefly considered getting a triple carburetor manifold,but decided against it for several reasons: Although all of Offenhauser’s triple manifold had fan brackets,it still wasn’t clear if the alternator would fit.
At 2. 21 cubic inches (a little more since the cylinders havebeen overbored by about . Even getting our old carburetorcleaned, rebuilt and plated to match the others would be expensive. We didknow that some people also install a block off plate instead ofthe middle carburetor, or install the carburetor but don’t connectthe throttle linkage to it. We also decided that while we were at it, we would get themanifold polished: the plain cast manifold looked okay, but notas shiny as our chrome alternator, the air cleaners or the carburetors. Choosing the carburetors.
This video is about how to install a universal electric fuel pump. Airtex is committed to providing the most up-to-date.
This was an easy choice for us: Stromberg 9. One reason is that the Stromberg wasthe factory carburetor in 1. Stromberg 9. 7 wasn’tused until 1. And since they’re older and rarer, there ismore of a mystique to them. The smallair cleaners, with or without louvers, look nice. Hot Rod & Custom Supply had some very tempting cast aluminum lids for openair cleaner elements, but they also had these dome shaped Stelling& Hellings air cleaners (I’ve also seen them in Flathead Jack’scatalog).
They look even better in real life. We did spring for. K& N filter elements instead of the paper. All the other parts.
The intake manifold, carburetors and air cleaners are the big,expensive sexy parts. But not the most important: you also needgaskets, fasteners, throttle linkages and fuel fittings and someof these are a little harder to locate. We also ended up needinga new fan belt and a new fuel pump push rod.
Here’s the completelist: Driver’s side throttle linkage for the carburetors. Passenger’s side linkage for the choke. Fuel line fittings for the carburetors. Carburetor gaskets and mounting studs. Intake manifold gasket.
We originally were going to go with 5/1. Many of the catalogs steer you towards electric fuelpumps but even the ones with both mechanical and electric fuelpumps ignore this fitting. We decided to stay with a mechanicalfuel pump so we wouldn’t have to do more wiring, wouldn’t haveto worry about a pressure regulator (the old carburetors can onlytake about 2psi while electric fuel pumps often operate at 6psi),and wouldn’t worry about things like an inertial cutoff switchfor the fuel pump. If we were planning on drag racing or goingout to the salt flats I’m sure that the fuel pump is a limitation,but I don’t expect to have any problems on the highways here. The throttle and choke linkage are just the standard Offenhauserparts.
They may look a little clunky with cotter pins everywhereholding things in place but they are functional. Most of the fancierlinkages have progressive mechanisms for three carburetors andare a lot more expensive. There are also some fancy ball bearingplain linkages too. Red at Red’s. Headers advised that the choke might not be needed with twocarburetors, but this is New England, not California, and we wantedto be able to use the truck in early spring and late fall so wegot the choke linkages installed on the carburetors and also alinkage to connect both chokes to the choke rod into the cab. We could have moved our current fuel pump and fuel pump standover to the new carburetor, but we happened to see NOS replacementfuel pump and a restored fuel pump stand at a swap meet so webought those.
Removal of old manifold and installation of new manifold. This was all pretty simple. We completely removed the alternatorto make the old manifold lighter and to get better access.
Disconnectedthe fuel line from the fuel pump to the firewall (we had a canready to catch any gas that was ready to drain back, but therewasn’t much to speak of). Disconnect the choke rod, throttle rodand accelerator pedal from the old carburetor. Then we went to work removingthe 2. The stock spark plug wirelooms are held on by some of the manifold bolts and once theywere removed we just moved the wire looms off to the side andlifted off the manifold, complete with carburetor and fuel pump.
The left hand picture shows the engine with the intake manifoldremoved but the gasket still in place. The middle picture showsthe front intake ports and valves and the yellow arrow pointsto the oil pressure relief valve.
Since our oil pressure is waytoo high when the engine is cold we removed this and checked thespring which had been stretched some. Although we tried to compressthis back, the oil pressure is still too high when cold, but settlesto a reasonable value once the engine is warm.
The right handpicture shows the rear intake ports and also the push rod whichoperates the fuel pump. The repair manuals always say . We putsome high temperature RTV on a new gasket, put the gasket in placeand then put the new manifold and carburetors in place. As you can see, we hooked up the choke linkage as well as thethrottle linkage here. We ended up having to remove the throttlelinkage though. The normal carburetor linkages don’t have anyprovision for connecting this throttle rod, but we had an extraball joint that we put on the linkage. However, we didn’t tryto make any sliding arrangement so pressing the accelerator pedalwould also try to move the throttle rod, definitely a bad idea.
You can also see that we used 1/4. We have been told that thisisn’t a good idea since vibration will cause copper to hardenup and eventually crack.
I’m not sure how much of a problem thatmight actually be since the fuel pump and carburetors are allmounted on the manifold, but it would be a very bad idea to usecopper or any metal pipe all the way to the fuel line on the firewall. Most of the replacement stock fuel lines from the fuel pump tothe carburetor are copper although originally they were copperplated steel. We originallywere going to use flexible hose to a fuel block on the firewall,but thought that some sort of hard lines between the fuel pumpand carburetor gives a cleaner look.
The intake manifold bolts get tightened down working from theinside towards the outside and some of these bolts hold down thespark plug wire looms.